The Bears went over the Mountain ............

..... and down into the valleys of the Zapotecs

After spending a couple more days moving along the very hot and humid Pacific Coast, on Thursday 2nd June we started making our way inland again via highway 175 which goes over the Sierra Niahuatlan. These mountains are very high and the road was very long and windy.

Lunch stop on Sierra Niahuatlan

We estimated that we went through at least 5 climatic zones between the Pacific Coast and Oaxaca. Firstly we had arid semi desert of the Pacific Coast, then we moved up into semi tropical country in the lower slopes of the mountains where they were growing coconut and bananas, higher up the mountain we went into more temperate climates and here there were profusions of flowers, including a magnificent moonflower. Nearing the top of the mountain we were in what looked like primary rainforest, thick jungly stuff, profusions of ferns and mighty big trees. As we crossed the top of the mountain we came out of the rain shadow and the fairly heavy rain we'd been experiencing stopped. Coming back down from the mountain top we were very soon back into semi arid country with giant aloes and cactus.

Would you believe so many different colours of banana!

Moonflowers on the mountainside

After 7 hours of driving we arrived at a place called 'Overlander Oasis' in the little town of El Tule, just outside the city of Oaxaca. Overlander Oasis is run by a Canadian couple, Calvin and Leanne, who understand overlanders and were very welcoming, friendly and helpful.

Footloose Lucy parked at Overlander Oasis, El Tule

There is so much to see and do in and around Oaxaca that we decided to base ourselves at the 'oasis' for the next few days.

Friday was a 'make and mend' day, topping up on provisions and getting laundry done. Sue also threw herself on the mercy of a Mexican hairdresser and had the quickest and cheapest haircut (£3.00 including tip) she has ever had in her life. The result wasn't too bad but Alan discovered a new vocation when he was required to make the finishing touches back at base.

Sue being sheared by local hairdresser

El Tule's main claim to fame is that it is supposedly home to the largest tree in the world. It is 11 metres wide and is in the churchyard of a 17th century church which it dwarfs. The Lonely Planet claims that it's not the world's biggest, being beaten by America's General Sherman, a giant Redwood tree which is somewhere in California. It is, however, undoubtedly the widest and it's certainly a great deal bigger than anything we've ever seen.

Sue in front of the biggest tree in the world (possibly)

Impossible sign!!

Oaxaca city is surrounded by many archeological sites and villages which are home to a number of indigenous groups, of whom the Zapotecs are the largest. They have their own language and customs, wear colourful clothing and make all kinds of handicrafts including rugs, textiles and pottery.

On Saturday we went along to the village of Teotitlan where they make handmade wool rugs using traditional natural dyes. Just about every other house appeared to have it's own workshop with looms and weaving on show.

Rug weaver at Teotitlan

On Sunday we visited a huge street market in a village called Tlacolula. One of the most interesting things was to see the Zapotec people who come in from the mountain villages with fruit, vegetables, their carvings, pottery and textiles. Alan was busy with his camera, as usual, but most of the Zapotec women did not want to be photographed. Every woman has her price and ten pesos was obviously not enough!

Zapotec lady

Stallholder shaving pineapples

Zapotec stallholder with chicken for sale

Pork scratchings Zapotec style

Zapotec lady chef

Onion sellers

The rainy season started here at the beginning of June, as predicted. So far, we have mostly had a violent thunderstorm for 2 or 3 hours in the late afternoon/early evening but on Monday it rained constantly all day making our trip to Oaxaca city a bit of a washout. We sloshed our way through the streets to various churches and museums, most of which were closed due to it being a Monday. The plaza was covered in tents and tarpaulins so the stall holders could keep themselves and their goods dry and there were demonstrations and marches going on (apparently common in Oaxaca), but we weren't quite sure what they were about. However, it was a lively place and we enjoyed the buzz.

Oaxaca in the rain

Church of Santo Domingo, Oaxaca

On Tuesday morning we set off to see Mitla, a Zapotec archeological site. From there we went on to Hierve el Agua which translates as the 'water boils' although it's actually cold. This is an area where a spring full of calcium comes out of the hill and dribbles over the side of the rocks producing the effect of something akin to bottles with candlewax dribbling down the sides that used to be popular in the sixties and seventies. It was undoubtedly spectacular and the drive there and back up a rough dirt road with lots of hairpins was fascinating. We also managed to see a man with a pair of oxen ploughing his land which happened to be at about 45 degrees to the vertical.

Iglesia de San Pablo, Mitla

Zapotec ruins, Mitla, with church behind

Zapotec ruins showing carvings

Cactus flower with insect

Ox ploughing on 45 degree field near Hierve el Agua

Hierve el Agua

On Wednesday we had another great day when we went to have a look at Monte Alban which is the biggest and most impressive of the pre-hispanic sites around here. We certainly found it to be so, it's situated on a flat hilltop about 4 or 5 kms to the west of Oaxaca and it is a world heritage site which has been very well preserved/restored. We reminded ourselves that the cute little Zapotec natives that one sees around the place in ethnic traditional dress were working out astronomical data and had advanced building techniques and a system of state government several hundred years BC at a time when the best that we could manage was Stonehenge.

Sue on Monte Alban

The Great Plaza, Monte Alban

Wall carving, Monte Alban

Temple Mound, Monte Alban

Carving of Defeated Enemy, Monte Alban

Ball Court, Monte Alban

Yesterday we took Footloose Lucy to have a full service at a garage in Oaxaca, at least that's what we hoped she would get, our Spanish being very limited and the mechanics speaking no English at all. When we returned to collect her in the evening we were informed that she needs a new set of brake pads which will have to be ordered and won't arrive until next week. On checking our selection of spares, brake pads are the only items we have failed to bring, once again proving Murphy's law.

Today is Friday 10th June and we had planned to leave today to head up into the forested mountains of the Sierra Norte, not far from here, where we intend to do lots of walking. We are told it will be cold and wet but that the landscapes are spectacular. As Lucy is going nowhere at the moment we will leave her at Overlander Oasis and go tomorrow by taxi up into the mountains and stay in a Cabana for the next few days until the new brake pads arrive.

We have had a fantastic week here in El Tule and enjoyed the company of our fellow travellers at Overlander Oasis which have included Americans, Germans, Dutch, Greeks, Aussie/Kiwi couple and Brazilians. Among the overland vehicles have been a 1958 Mercedes, which is towing a trailer, and a heavily modified Landrover.

Bird of Paradise flower, El Tule

Gentlemen in the park, El Tule

Butterflies mating in El Tule